Pruning
Those stubborn olive tree suckers might look like extra growth, but they’re actually sapping energy from your tree’s best branches. 🌿 I’ve pruned dozens of olive trees, and these fast-growing shoots—whether they’re sprouting from the trunk, roots, or old cuts—always need removal to keep your tree healthy.
The good news? With the right tools and timing, you can turn a struggling tree into a thriving one in just a few hours.
Start by grabbing sharp pruning shears or a saw for thicker suckers, plus rubbing alcohol to sterilize cuts and prevent disease. The best time to tackle these is late winter or early spring, when the tree’s dormant but about to burst with new growth.
You’ll want to cut suckers at their base, just above a bud or lateral branch, to encourage clean regrowth. Even a single session can make a noticeable difference in your tree’s vigor.
What you’ll end up with is a stronger olive tree that directs its energy toward fruit production and sturdy branches instead of wasted growth. The leaves will darken, new shoots will emerge in the right places, and you’ll avoid the long-term damage suckers cause—like weakened structure or disease entry points.
Plus, you’ll save time on future pruning since you’re stopping problems before they start.
For long-term care, mulch around the base to discourage root suckers and consider installing a root barrier if your tree keeps sending up unwanted shoots.
And yes, you can propagate suckers if you want more olive trees—but for most gardeners, removing them entirely is the simplest path to a healthier, more productive tree. Let’s get those branches back in shape!
📚 In This Guide
- What you need
- Instructions
- Tips and common mistakes
- Wrapping up and next steps
What you need
- ● Pruning shears: Bypass pruners (for small suckers, 6–8" blades) – 1 pair (sharp, clean, and rust-resistant).
- ● Loppers: Long-handled bypass loppers (for thicker suckers, 20–24" blades) – 1 pair (rated for 2" cuts).
- ● Pruning saw: Curved-tooth pruning saw (for stubborn, large suckers) – 1 (8–12" blade).
- ● Disposable gloves: Nitrile or leather (to protect hands from thorns and sap) – 1–2 pairs.
- ● Rubbing alcohol (70%+) or bleach solution: (for sterilizing tools) – small bottle.
- ● Heavy-duty trash bags: (for collecting pruned suckers) – 2–3 bags.
- ● Ladder (if needed): Sturdy, extendable (for high branches) – 1 (with non-slip feet).
- ● Hand pruners with ratcheting mechanism (for extra leverage on tough suckers).
- ● Pruning sealant (to protect cuts if needed, e.g., Tanglefoot Pruning Seal).
- ● Safety glasses (to shield eyes from debris).
- ● Knee pads (if you’ll be working on the ground for extended periods).
- ● Notebook & pen (to sketch a pruning plan or mark branches for removal).
Simple pruning steps to revive olive tree suckers
Here's how to breathe new life into your olive tree using just a few basic tools and techniques.
✂️ Step 1: Identify Healthy vs. Dying Branches
Start by examining your olive tree for suckers—those vigorous shoots growing from the base or along the trunk. Healthy suckers have green leaves and firm, flexible stems. Dying branches, on the other hand, will feel brittle, have brown or yellowed leaves, and may snap easily when bent. I always check in early spring when new growth begins—this is the best time to spot issues before they spread.
Run your fingers along the bark where suckers meet the main trunk. If the bark feels rough or cracked, that sucker is likely competing with the tree rather than supporting it. Mark these branches with a small piece of tape or a pencil so you don’t accidentally prune the wrong ones later. Remember, you’re removing energy drains, not just any random shoots.
🌿 Step 2: Sterilize Tools and Make Clean Cuts
Before you touch your olive tree, sterilize your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution. This prevents spreading diseases between cuts. I like to use sharp bypass pruners for smaller suckers and loppers for thicker branches—dull tools crush stems, inviting infection. Make your cuts at a 45-degree angle, about ¼ inch above a leaf node or outward-facing bud. This encourages new growth in the right direction.
Never leave stubs—always cut back to the branch collar, the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk. If you cut too close, you’ll damage the tree’s healing tissues. For suckers growing directly from the trunk, cut as close as possible without removing bark. Think of it like giving your tree a clean haircut—precise and intentional.
☀️ Step 3: Prune for Light and Airflow
Step back and visualize how light and air move through the tree. Remove suckers that grow inward or cross over other branches—these create shaded, humid pockets where fungus thrives. I aim to open up the center of the tree by 20-30%, allowing sunlight to reach the inner canopy. This isn’t about drastic changes; even small adjustments improve the tree’s overall health.
Focus on suckers growing from the base first. These compete directly with the main trunk for nutrients. After pruning, wipe down any sap with a damp cloth to prevent it from attracting pests. If your tree has multiple trunks, prioritize removing suckers from the weaker one—this helps balance the tree’s energy distribution naturally.
💧 Step 4: Post-Pruning Care for Recovery
Water the tree deeply right after pruning to help it recover. The roots will need extra moisture to support new growth, especially if you’ve removed a lot of foliage. I water at the base, avoiding the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. For the first 2-3 weeks, keep an eye out for signs of stress—yellowing leaves or wilting can mean the tree is struggling with the change.
Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around the drip line (the edge of the tree’s canopy) to give your olive tree the nutrients it needs to bounce back. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers—they encourage soft, weak growth that’s more susceptible to pests. Instead, opt for a formula with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. This supports root development and overall resilience.
⏰ Step 5: Monitor and Repeat Seasonally
Check your olive tree every 4-6 weeks during the growing season for new suckers. Early intervention is key—small suckers are easier to remove and cause less stress on the tree. I schedule a quick pruning session in late summer to tidy up any regrowth before winter dormancy. This keeps the tree looking neat and prevents overcrowding.
If you notice dieback in the branches after pruning, it’s normal for the first year. The tree is redirecting energy to stronger growth. Avoid pruning again until new shoots appear. For mature trees, limit pruning to 10-15% of the canopy per year—this prevents shock. Think of it like a haircut: small, regular adjustments keep the tree healthy and balanced.
Tips & tricks for perfect olive tree pruning
These simple tricks will help you prune your olive tree like a pro—without overcomplicating things.
Timing Secret: Early spring is the best time to prune olive trees, but if you missed that window, late winter or early summer works too. I've found that pruning after the last frost but before new growth really kicks in gives the tree the best chance to recover. Avoid pruning during extreme heat or drought—your tree will be more stressed and slower to heal.
Tool Technique: In Step 2, when making those 45-degree cuts, here's what I do: I first make a small notch just above the branch collar to guide my final cut. This prevents tearing and ensures a clean cut. For thicker suckers, I use my loppers to make the initial cut slightly off-center, then complete the cut from the opposite side—this prevents the branch from rolling and damaging the trunk.
Visual Cues for Pruning: When you're deciding which suckers to remove in Step 3, look for branches that grow directly upward or inward. These are the ones causing the most competition. I like to imagine the tree as a vase—you want the shape to be open and inviting, with light able to reach all parts of the canopy. Think of it like styling hair: you're creating balance and flow, not just hacking away randomly.
Recovery Strategy: After pruning, I've noticed that olive trees often show signs of stress in the first 2-3 weeks. This is normal! The key is to monitor closely. If you see yellowing leaves, it's usually a sign the tree is redirecting energy. Water deeply at the base (not the leaves) and avoid fertilizing until new growth appears. A light application of compost around the drip line can help with recovery without overwhelming the tree.
Pro Tips for Olive Tree Suckers
- These simple tricks will help you prune your olive tree like a pro—without overcomplicating things.
- Timing Secret: Early spring is the best time to prune olive trees, but if you missed that window, late winter or early summer works too.
- Tool Technique: In Step 2, when making those 45-degree cuts, here's what I do: I first make a small notch just above the branch collar to guide my final cut.
Frequently asked questions
Got questions about olive tree suckers? You’re not alone! Here are some of the most common concerns—and straightforward answers—to help you tackle them like a pro.
What exactly are olive tree suckers, and why do they appear?
Olive tree suckers are aggressive, fast-growing shoots that sprout from the roots, trunk, or branches. They steal nutrients from the main tree, weakening its growth and reducing fruit production. Suckers often appear after pruning, stress, or damage, as the tree’s survival instinct kicks in to regenerate.
When is the best time to prune olive tree suckers?
The ideal time to prune suckers is late winter to early spring (just before new growth starts) or summer after harvest. Avoid pruning in fall or winter when the tree is dormant, as this can stress it further. If you spot suckers year-round, remove them promptly—they won’t wait for “the right time!”
How do I remove suckers without harming the main tree?
Use clean, sharp pruners or a saw to cut suckers at the base, just above the soil line or trunk. Avoid tearing the bark—this can introduce diseases. For stubborn suckers, apply a wound sealant (like pruning paste) to the cut if the trunk is exposed. Pro tip: Wear gloves to protect against sap irritation!
Will removing suckers kill my olive tree?
No—removing suckers actually helps your tree! They’re parasitic to the main structure, draining energy. However, if you remove too much foliage at once (over 25% of the canopy), the tree may struggle. Focus on suckers first, then prune branches strategically to balance growth.
Are there chemical alternatives to pruning suckers?
While chemicals like hormone root inhibitors (e.g., Hydrogen Dioxide) can suppress sucker growth, they’re not always effective long-term. Organic options like copper-based sprays or vinegar solutions (50/50 mix with water) can weaken suckers, but physical removal remains the gold standard. Test small areas first!
What if new suckers keep growing back after pruning?
Persistent suckers often mean the tree is stressed. Check for root damage, overwatering, or nutrient deficiencies. Improve drainage, mulch properly, and fertilize with phosphorus-rich compost (like bone meal) to strengthen the root system. If the problem continues, consult a local arborist to rule out pests or disease.
Wrapping up and next steps
Reviving your olive tree with pruning isn’t just about cutting back—it’s about giving your tree a fresh start and ensuring it thrives for years to come. 🌱 By identifying suckers, using the right tools, and following proper techniques, you’ll restore health, boost fruit production, and keep your tree strong.
Now that you’re equipped with the knowledge, roll up your sleeves and get pruning!
Ready to take action? Start small—pick one branch this weekend and practice the steps you’ve learned. Before you know it, your olive tree will be flourishing, and you’ll be the proud gardener behind its comeback! 🌿